Michigan motorcycle permit practice test: 270 free practice questions (Based on the official driver handbook). The official format is not yet verified; check the official site before your test. Bad Weather & Night Driving: 17 questions. Updated
Rain, snow, ice, fog and night driving: visibility, traction and headlight use.
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Questions (17)
1. Which of the following surfaces does not provide poor traction?
Wet pavement
Dry pavement ✓
Lane markings
Snow
Answer: B. Dry pavement
Dry pavement is the surface that does not provide poor traction. The manual says a motorcycle handles better on surfaces that allow good traction. It then names surfaces with poor traction: wet pavement, especially just after rain starts and before oil washes to the side, plus gravel roads and places where sand and gravel collect. Dry pavement is not among those poor-traction surfaces. That makes it the choice that does not provide poor traction, since the passage treats wet and loose-material surfaces as the problem and dry pavement as the contrast.
When it starts to rain, the best move is to ride in the tire tracks left by cars. The manual lists the center of a lane as a spot that can be hazardous when wet, and it says plainly that when rain begins you should ride in the tire tracks left by vehicles. It adds that the left tire track is often the best position, depending on traffic and road conditions. The same section tells you to slow down before slippery surfaces and to avoid sudden moves, so your job in rain is to pick the less slippery part of the lane and keep your inputs smooth.
3. When riding on a slippery surface, you should not:
Reduce your speed.
Avoid sudden moves.
Use both brakes.
Brake quickly. ✓
Answer: D. Brake quickly.
When riding on a slippery surface, you should not brake quickly; use smooth, gentle brake pressure instead. The manual's slippery-surface advice is to slow down before you reach the slick spot, avoid any sudden change in speed or direction, and use both brakes with gentle pressure. It says to squeeze the brake lever gradually rather than grab it, and it warns that too much brake can cause a skid. A quick, hard stop asks for exactly the kind of abrupt brake force the manual tells you to avoid on a slippery surface.
4. If your front wheel begins to skid, you should:
Keep the front brake engaged and ride out the skid.
Keep the front brake engaged and release the rear brake.
Immediately release and re-engage the front brake. ✓
Release the front brake and increase the pressure on the rear brake.
Answer: C. Immediately release and re-engage the front brake.
If the front wheel begins to skid, immediately release the front brake lever and then reapply it smoothly with less pressure. The manual treats a locked front wheel as an emergency you must end right away: let go of the front brake lever the moment the wheel locks, then squeeze it back on smoothly with lighter pressure. It explains why this cannot wait — a front-wheel skid costs you steering control and balance immediately, so staying on the brake keeps the wheel locked and the bike unsteerable. Releasing and reapplying restores the roll of the front wheel while still giving you braking. The same manual gives the same instruction for a front wheel that locks during a quick stop.
Pull off to the side of the road until the rain stops.
Ride in the tire tracks left by cars. ✓
Increase your speed.
Answer: C. Ride in the tire tracks left by cars.
When it is raining, the best choice is to ride in the tire tracks left by cars. The manual explains that the middle of a lane can be a bad place to be once rain starts, so you should put your wheels where other vehicles have already driven. Those tracks give you a better surface than the slick center. It adds that the left track is often the best spot, depending on traffic and road conditions, and reminds you to slow down and stay smooth on any wet surface. So following car tracks is the riding position the manual recommends, not stopping or speeding up.
6. Of the following, which should you not do to improve your safety when riding at night?
Increase your speed. ✓
Reduce your speed.
Use your high beam headlight whenever possible.
Increase your following distance.
Answer: A. Increase your speed.
When riding at night, you should not increase your speed — slowing down is what the manual tells you to do. The manual's night-riding section starts from the fact that seeing and being seen are both harder after dark. Its advice is to ride slower than you would in daylight, especially on roads you don't know well, because that gives you a better chance of avoiding a hazard. Opening up a following distance of three seconds or more is listed alongside that. Speeding up works against all of this, so it is the one action on the list that doesn't belong.
Easier than riding during the day because you can more easily see the lights of other vehicles.
More difficult than riding during the day because it is harder to see. ✓
Not allowed on highways.
Less distracting than riding during the day.
Answer: B. More difficult than riding during the day because it is harder to see.
Riding at night is more difficult than riding during the day because it is harder to see. The manual says plainly that at night it is harder for you to see and be seen, and that other drivers find it hard to pick your headlight or taillight out of the surrounding car lights. It also notes that distances are harder to judge in the dark because your eyes depend on shadows and light contrast. That is why it tells riders to slow down, keep a bigger following gap, and use the headlights of the car ahead to help read the road.
Distances are easier to judge than they are during the day.
Using a high beam headlight always makes it difficult to see.
Use only one lane position.
Reduce your speed. ✓
Answer: D. Reduce your speed.
When riding at night, you should reduce your speed. The manual's night-riding section says it is harder to see and be seen after dark, and it lists slowing down as a way to compensate. It tells you to ride slower than you would in daytime, especially on roads you do not know well, so you have a better chance to avoid a hazard. That matches the choice to reduce your speed. Other night-riding advice in the same passage, such as increasing following distance, also supports riding more cautiously after dark.
9. It is difficult for other motorists to see motorcycles at night. To make up for that, a motorcycle rider should:
Reduce their speed when riding at night. ✓
Sound their horn repeatedly when riding at night.
Not ride at night.
Stay directly in front of another vehicle to be seen in their headlights when riding at night.
Answer: A. Reduce their speed when riding at night.
Slow down at night — ride slower than you would in daylight, especially on roads you don't know well. The manual lists reducing speed first among the ways to make up for how hard night riding is. Because other drivers struggle to pick your headlight or taillight out of the surrounding car lights, and because you see less yourself, riding slower gives you more time to spot a hazard and avoid it. The manual ties this advice specifically to unfamiliar roads, where you have less idea what is coming. Sounding the horn or staying home is not part of the guidance.
In fog, you should ride with your low beam headlight on. The manual's lighting guidance says to use low beam at night and in fog, and it notes that a motorcycle with its light on during the day is twice as likely to be noticed. So the low beam is the setting the manual names for foggy conditions, which is what the answer key calls for.